Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Water Crossings 2

I haven't had to make a serious water crossing since I moved to Arizona, and frankly I miss them. There isn't anything as exciting as fording a freezing cold, fast flowing river.


You may be wondering why Steve only has one pant leg in this picture. He smashed his knee on a rock pretty badly, and it was bleeding all over the place. When we stopped to doctor it up he took his pant leg off, and kept it off for easier access in the future (since the band-aids kept falling off). Plus, he didn't want his pants soaked with blood, being that we were in prime bear country in Montana.


Okay, here we have a semi-serious crossing at Fossil Creek in Arizona. It made for a nice rock-hop.


This photo of Cave Creek is typical of most of the water crossings you have to make in the desert. The water level is low, and the water itself is stagnant.

Monday, January 28, 2013

Trail Days 4 - Superstition Edition

More shots from my backpacking trip last weekend. Sarah is in most of these shots since I was trailing the group snapping away with the camera the whole time. Enjoy!


The Superstitions


The Superstitions



The Superstitions



The Superstitions

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Superstition Wilderness: Charlebois Spring

Superstition Wilderness

Finally, a return trip to the Superstitions. Last time was just a day hike around Lost Dutchman State Park. This time I would actually be traveling into the backcountry and spending the night. The Superstition Mountains (or "the Supes" as the locals say) is a 159,757 acre federally designated Wilderness in some of the most ruggedly beautiful Sonoran desert landscape I've seen. Not long after we struck out from the First Water trailhead I was in awe of the beauty of the place, and wondering why I hadn't spent more time here.

Superstition Wilderness
Giant Saguaro
 On Dutchman Trail #104 I noticed immediately the huge and dramatic rock formations that make up these mountains. It made for some awesome eye candy during  my walk. Especially with the impressive, 1000' Weavers Needle towering in the background. I mentioned the legend of the Lost Dutchman's Gold in a previous blog, well another part of the legend claims that the shadow cast by Weavers Needle at a certain time of day will reveal the location of the lost gold.

Weavers Needle
Weavers Needle

It was a hot hike, but never miserably so. I think the temps only reached the low 80's, although it felt like more at times under the relentless sun. The Supes are a place to hike in the winter time. In the summer temps can reach 115 degrees, and water is sometimes impossible to find. In January the heat wasn't so bad, and water was plentiful (for the desert I mean).


The Superstitions

I don't know if they call these mountains The Superstitions because of the Lost Dutchman story, or because of the rock formations, some of which can be quite mysterious. I mean, this looks like a place of superstitions and hidden treasures. In a sense it is, if you know where to look. In these mountains you can find Hohokam petroglyphs, Spanish hieroglyphs, and supposedly buried gold.


Superstition Wilderness
Faces in the rocks. Can you see them?

Superstition Wilderness


Overall it was a great trip. The only disappointment was our camp at Charlebois Spring (pronounced Charlie Boy), which was tucked away in a canyon choked full of very spiny vegetation. There wasn't really any good spot to pitch a tent, and camping next to us was a large group of Boy Scouts who started hootin' and hollerin' at about 6 in the morning on Sunday.

Superstition Wilderness

On the way out Sunday, I kept thinking how much I wanted to stay. One night in the backcountry is really just a tease. I want to stay longer. Maybe a week... Or a month... Yeah, a month sounds good.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

The 10 Essentials

Desert Backpacking
I remember a steep climb under a relentless sun. It was miserably hot. Shade was nearly non-existent. My feet hurt from the rocks and stones that littered the trail, and my clothes were drenched in sweat from the climb and the heat. I rounded a bend, and saw a large man sitting in the middle of the trail. He was sweaty and dirty and wore a look of distress on his swollen face. One of his feet was bare, the other wore a flimsy looking black flip-flop.

"You look prepared" he said matter-of-factly as I walked up, no doubt noticing my bulging backpack and guessing (correctly) that it was full of gear.

 "You have to be out here" I replied while I pondered his predicament. No pack, 1 bottle of water, and flip-flops for shoes. I recalled all the warning signs at the trailhead imploring hikers to be prepared, and wondered why this man had ignored them.

 "You wouldn't happen to have any duct tape so I can fix this flip-flop do you?" he asked, obviously embarrassed.

"Actually, I do" I replied, as I took my pack off and fished out my FAST kit. I had a little roll, maybe 4 or 5 feet worth, but it was enough to fix his destroyed flip-flop. I gave him the roll. I didn't mind giving it to him. I have been carrying duct tape in my pack for 3 or 4 years, and have never had to use it for repair... But I carry it because one day it might save my ass.

It pays to be prepared in the wilderness. Even on a day hike, you should at least bring the essentials, because you never know what's going to happen. A broken flip-flop may be a poor example, because you shouldn't be hiking in flip-flops anyway, but if I hadn't come along with duct tape that guy could have found himself in a survival situation. Just last week a man and his two sons died from exposure on a day-hike after the weather turned foul. In one afternoon the sky went from blue to heavy rain, and temps dropped from the 60's to below freezing. They couldn't see in the downpour and sudden cloud cover, and lost their way. They weren't packing the essentials. Tragically they froze to death overnight. 

What are these essentials you may be asking? The 10 Essentials are a list of essential systems you should always take hiking, that will increase your chances for survival if something goes wrong. Chances are many of the items comprising your 10 Essentials will never get used.

10 Essentials

1) Navigation - Map and compass, and the ability to use them properly. Even day hiking in areas near town that I know relatively well, I always bring a compass. In the backcountry, a topographic map is a must. I'm not saying you have to be an expert at orienteering to go backpacking (as I most certainly am not), but you should at least know some basics. And remember, while a GPS is a great tool, it should never be relied on for your sole means of navigation, because electronics fail, and batteries run out, and in the case of a GPS, you wont always have a signal. If your'e interested in learning orienteering (map and compass) check out your local orienteering or hiking club. Outdoor outfitters often teach classes too.

2) Sun Protection - Sun glasses, hat, sun screen. I always bring these items, but rarely use sunscreen. I never hit the trail without a hat on.

3) Insulation - An extra layer of warm clothing (fleece or a down jacket), beanie and gloves. Temps can change rapidly and unexpectedly in the wilderness, especially at higher elevations. Even in the summer when its hot, you should bring a jacket in your pack. Chances are you wont ever use it, but it could save your life if you had to stay overnight in the wilderness. Even on day hikes I always at least carry a fleece in my pack. When I go backpacking, no matter what the season, I carry a fleece (or a down vest), a beanie, thermal underwear, and a pair of gloves.

4) Illumination - Headlamp, flashlight, etc. I always carry my headlamp, even on day hikes. If for any reason you find yourself on the trail past sundown, you at least have the means to see in the dark. Your headlamp or flashlight can also be used for emergency signalling.

5) First-aid kit - My first-aid kit goes with me hiking, backpacking, and camping, and on almost every trip I dip into it at least once. You can buy pre-packaged kits from you local outdoor outfitter, but if you want to make your own, The Washington Trails Association has a pretty comprehensive list of items. One random item I always bring that often gets overlooked is tweezers. I've used them to pull out ticks, and just last weekend saw someone on the trail using them to pull cactus spines out of their arm. Over the years I've given out band-aids, moleskin, antibiotic ointment, ibuprofen, and burn cream (to name a few) to people on the trail who either didn't bring a first-aid kit, or who didn't bring an adequately supplied kit.

6) Fire - More specifically, the means to start a fire: Lighter, waterproof matches, fire steel, etc. If you've ever watched Dual Survival, or any of the survival shows on TV,  you'll know that fire starting is one of the top priorities in a survival situation. I keep a small box of waterproof matches in my FAST kit, witch always goes with me. Of course, unless you plan on smoking a joint on the top of the mountain, you probably wont use your lighter on a day hike. But remember, the 10 Essentials are designed to help you deal effectively with an emergency situation. If you find yourself stranded overnight, a fire will not only keep you warm, but can also be used for signaling, and it's a big morale booster too.

7) Repair Kit - Duct tape, safety pins, needle & thread, and cordage, to name a few. Again, the chances of you having to use these items are small, but if the need should arise, you'll be glad you have them. I carry all those items I listed. Duct tape is an important one because it fixes almost anything. Just think about what gear you are taking, and how they could fail, and plan accordingly.

8) Extra Food - Often times on day hikes, I see people carrying a bottle of water in their hand and nothing else. I always at least bring a couple granola bars or trail mix or beef jerky. Obviously, a human being can go a long time without eating, but that doesn't mean you'd want to. Eating food can be a morale booster, plus it will help keep you warm at night if you eat before bed.

9) Hydration - Nothing is worse than running out of water miles from your next source. I know because I've done it. Always bring extra water on your day hikes. If climbing the mountain is steeper than you anticipated, or the temps are higher than reported, you'll be glad you did. If you are going backpacking, then you need a way to treat the water you find in the wilderness. A filter is the most popular method. You can also treat it chemically, or with UV light. There's lots of options, so do your research.

10) Shelter - Tent, bivy sack, emergency blanket. When you're backpacking this is a given most of the time, although here in Arizona a lot of people cowboy camp, but even they should have some form of shelter just in case. I keep an emergency blanket in my FAST kit that always goes with me, even on day hikes. It might seem ridiculous to carry shelter on a day hike, but if you are caught in a storm like that poor man and his sons were, shelter from the rain could be the difference between life and death. Hypothermia kills. 

If I could add anything to this list it would be this: Rain Gear. For me that means always bringing a rain jacket, even on day hikes, even in the desert. For backpacking, I bring a rain jacket and pack cover, always, no matter what. Frankly, I don't want to be wet and I don't want my gear wet. Not only is it uncomfortable, but it's dangerous. Keeping yourself and your kit dry should be a top priority in the wilderness.

Disclosure: I am by no means a survival expert. I had been thinking about writing this for some time because I frequently see people on the trail carrying practically nothing, and when I heard about that guy and his two sons dying on a day hike, it finally compelled me to sit down and write. This information is nothing new. I didn't invent the 10 Essentials. I am just passing it along in case someone doesn't know.

References:

http://news.yahoo.com/illinois-father-two-sons-freeze-death-during-hike-193245919.html

http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ten-essentials.html?gclid=CJ_m8fqL-7QCFUjZQgodSDMAIg&s_kwcid=TC|13029|10%20essentials||S|e|19595601845&ef_id=ULmYdwAAUUeBV3Nh:20130122040944:s


Wednesday, January 16, 2013

A Bug's Life 3

White-lined Sphinx Moth Caterpillar
White-lined Sphinx Moth Caterpillar 

White-lined Sphinx Moth Caterpillar
White-lined Sphinx Moth Caterpillar

Monarch Butterfly
Monarch Butterfly

Spider at dusk.



Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Olympic Sun

I spent 4 days and 3 nights hiking on the Olympic coast. It was the most unique hiking experience of my life. It felt so wild and rugged and remote... And beautiful too. Nowhere else have I seen a comparable sky. I loved having an unobstructed view of the Pacific ocean just over my left shoulder. Its a place I will surely return to someday.


Olympic National Park


Olympic National Park

Olympic National Park

Olympic National Park

Olympic National Park

Monday, January 7, 2013

Meet the Sinagua: Tuzigoot and Montezuma's Castle

One of the coolest things about living in Arizona is the rich history of its original inhabitants. Peppered throughout the state are the ruins of ancient native American structures. One of these structures, and  probably the most impressive that I have seen thus far, is Montezuma's Castle. The National Park service describes it as "high-rise apartments" but It looks like it could make a formidable castle as well. 

Montezuma's Castle
Montezuma's Castle
 This cliff-dwelling was built by the Sinagua people around 700 AD.  How they built it I have no idea, as the structure is carved in limestone on the side of a sheer cliff face. The pictures don't really do it justice, but it's carved so high up that I imagine the builders had to use ladders and scaffolding, or maybe they even hung suspended from ropes from the top like the carvers of Mount Rushmore. Whatever the case may be, Montezuma's Castle is an impressive feat of ancient engineering.


Montezuma's Castle
Wide shot of Montezuma's Castle
  I don't know why the Sinagua built their home so far off the ground, but it stands to reason they did it for defense. Why else? Any attacking force would have a hell of a time scaling vertical rock while being bombarded with rocks and arrows and spears. 


Tuzigoot
Tuzigoot
 Another really cool ruin is an ancient Pueblo called Tuzigoot, also built by the Sinagua. Tuzigoot is a huge 3 story building with 110 rooms, so it must have housed a lot of people. This ruin you can actually walk around in and explore, so it really gives you a sense of how these people must have lived.


Tuzigoot
"Center" of Tuzigoot
Tuzigoot is somewhat pyramidal in shape, and the center is its highest point. It has almost like a parapet on top where lookouts must have stood. Tuzigoot seems to dominate the Verde River flood plane, and its easy to see why the Sinagua chose this locations. From this point you can see for miles in every direction. 


View from one of the rooms.
 Its amazing to me that ancient people lived here, especially because the climate is so brutal in the summer time.  I cant help but wonder how they did it, and how they thrived. Obviously they were a much tougher breed then the current crop of Arizonans, who cant live without bottled water and air conditioning. Further south in the Sonoran Desert are more ruins, which I have yet to explore. I cant wait to explore them. For me its a thrill to peak inside the lives of the people who came before us.

View from the top.

References:

http://www.nps.gov/tuzi/index.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuzigoot_National_Monument
http://www.nps.gov/moca/historyculture/index.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montezuma_Castle_National_Monument